Home, for now. Don't expect to post much while here, although I will post some pictures in the next few days.
In the meantime, how about these gentoo penguins in captivity ('Polar Land' in Harbin, northern China)?
Male penguin pair given eggs to parent.
2008-12-16
2008-12-10
North
Just as I've begun to feel I have my routine down pat, as I get a feel for what is really going on in penguin colonies, I know I must wrap up my first Antarctic adventure. I will be happy to come home, and resume my more usual routines. I've missed family and friends, and can't wait to share my stories. Even so, it is hard to leave such a wonderful place. I know I can't fully describe my time here. My last day in Antarctica (for this trip) was great, finishing up my share of field work, connecting with other researchers on my project and others, and getting a chance to simply take in the surroundings - as well as a few [dozen] photos. The rolling seas and 30+ knot winds of the Drake Passage, though allowing us safe and fairly smooth travels, have us looking forward to the more sheltered waters ahead. We know that from here on out we are merely headed home, and look forward to the end of the journey. Soon I will be back in South America and on my way. Hasta luego!
2008-12-08
Snow
Well, I'm pretty sure I've mentioned the snow, but perhaps not in much detail. When reading about the early expeditions in Antarctic Exploration, there are a few things that intellectually I get, but just aren't the same as actual experience. They say the Inuit have 100 words for snow, and my glimpse of Antarctica has started to show me why. In some places, I walk fairly easily across the top crust of snow. In other places, it has been packed down, and still makes for easy walking. More often, you sink down into the snow some ways. Freshly fallen snow has a completely different texture. Some snow is great for snowballs, while some ice far too icy. Some has weathered away to form a strange footing of tiny peaks and valleys of ice, mud and guano.
Back to the early expeditions, there are many accounts of their travels through the snow and ice of Antarctica. And it was one thing to sit at home and read about - Roald Amundsen's meticulous grids of markers around food depots for finding more easily later on, and Robert Falcon Scott's team man-hauling their supplies across the continent toward the Pole. And intellectually, you get that this was hard, laborious work, in an extremely harsh environment. But it's so far removed from any experience I've had. How do you truly appreciate it then? What I've experienced here is truly just the tip of the iceberg. And yet, slogging through the many forms of snow, in some of the northernmost Antarctic terrain, in safe weather conditions, with all my 21st century high tech gear - a radio to communicate, gps, etc. - and carrying a light load of items to last me only a few hours at a time, and a few emergency supplies ... it can be tough. It can be tiring. And each time, I return to a warm, comfortable home base with cocoa and excellent food waiting. Rolling across the Drake Passage on a new ship, an excellent polar vessel, the trip down isn't spectacularly comfortable.
To then think, of how much easier all this is, compared to the expeditions, in comparably tiny vessels sailing far greater distances, loaded to the brim with men and animals, food and supplies - only to reach the continent and slog through hundreds of miles of ever-changing Antarctic terrain - I feel all the less able to fathom how they did it, and what it could have possibly been like. It is easy to look back and wonder how some of the errors in those expeditions could have been made - but despite any poor planning or judgement, the men who explored this wilderness can only be held in the highest regard. Few people are cut out for arduous and tedious work.
As for my trip, it is coming to a close - soon I will be whisked back across the Drake and headed on my way home. I already feel nostalgic, but I will wait and make one final post for the trip in the next couple of days. Yesterday, we accomplished a great deal. Admittedly it wore me out, but after a nap, I managed to stay up for the sunset - though the sun does set here, dusk never seems to arrive; it seems to stay at light as a cloudy midafternoon. Today, we began work very early, so I supplemented my cocoa mug with some coffee. I had the thrill to see for the first time, graceful petrels and chicken-like sheathbills nesting in the crannies of a rocky cliff. It's remarkable that in such a different place, the cormorants flying past are so similar to those back home. The snowy peaks seem to fuse with the blinding clouds, and it's hard to tell where one ends and the other begins.
Back to the early expeditions, there are many accounts of their travels through the snow and ice of Antarctica. And it was one thing to sit at home and read about - Roald Amundsen's meticulous grids of markers around food depots for finding more easily later on, and Robert Falcon Scott's team man-hauling their supplies across the continent toward the Pole. And intellectually, you get that this was hard, laborious work, in an extremely harsh environment. But it's so far removed from any experience I've had. How do you truly appreciate it then? What I've experienced here is truly just the tip of the iceberg. And yet, slogging through the many forms of snow, in some of the northernmost Antarctic terrain, in safe weather conditions, with all my 21st century high tech gear - a radio to communicate, gps, etc. - and carrying a light load of items to last me only a few hours at a time, and a few emergency supplies ... it can be tough. It can be tiring. And each time, I return to a warm, comfortable home base with cocoa and excellent food waiting. Rolling across the Drake Passage on a new ship, an excellent polar vessel, the trip down isn't spectacularly comfortable.
To then think, of how much easier all this is, compared to the expeditions, in comparably tiny vessels sailing far greater distances, loaded to the brim with men and animals, food and supplies - only to reach the continent and slog through hundreds of miles of ever-changing Antarctic terrain - I feel all the less able to fathom how they did it, and what it could have possibly been like. It is easy to look back and wonder how some of the errors in those expeditions could have been made - but despite any poor planning or judgement, the men who explored this wilderness can only be held in the highest regard. Few people are cut out for arduous and tedious work.
As for my trip, it is coming to a close - soon I will be whisked back across the Drake and headed on my way home. I already feel nostalgic, but I will wait and make one final post for the trip in the next couple of days. Yesterday, we accomplished a great deal. Admittedly it wore me out, but after a nap, I managed to stay up for the sunset - though the sun does set here, dusk never seems to arrive; it seems to stay at light as a cloudy midafternoon. Today, we began work very early, so I supplemented my cocoa mug with some coffee. I had the thrill to see for the first time, graceful petrels and chicken-like sheathbills nesting in the crannies of a rocky cliff. It's remarkable that in such a different place, the cormorants flying past are so similar to those back home. The snowy peaks seem to fuse with the blinding clouds, and it's hard to tell where one ends and the other begins.
2008-12-07
Gentoos
Saturday. Well, today was pretty busy and fairly routine. Surveys on a few different groups, a few different places. A fair amount of slogging through deep snow. Actually, it reminded me of how top-heavy my backpack is - well, the small zip pockets are all at the top - the rest is just one big space - so most of the stuff I want easy access to is up top. Don't think that'll change, but it does make me wonder ow I could improve it. Today had rapidly changing weather, from sun to snow and back to sun, the edge of the storm cloud slicing across the sky like the blade of a knife. (Now accepting better analogies. Similes? Sorry, my brain is tired.) Some really nice weather here and there, lighting up the white of the snow, the blue of the iceberg, the red of the gentoo's beak.
Today's penguin time was split between Adelies and Gentoos, so perhaps it's appropriate that I follow up on my last post and say a word about the gentoos. Like the adelies (and chinstraps), they are "brush-tailed" penguins. They are the northernmost of the brush-tailed penguins, and can be recognized by white markings above their eyes, and very red beaks. As the northernmost of the group, the gentoos are having basically the opposite response from the adelies to the changing climate - they are the ones benefitting from warmer winters and less pack ice. They seem to be popping up in new places, slowly spreading south, and doing pretty well in this part of the world. Watching them swim along the shore is always a fun pastime, when we get the rare chance to enjoy it. Still taking lots of pictures. Already have too many, really. But I've also already had to pick out my favorites so far. We had a traditional Patagonian dinner the other night, which was a lot of fun.
Sipping cocoa as usual (NOT my first cup today), and glancing out from time to time at the conditions. I never know what I'll see when I look out the window. I hope things are looking good out your windows tonight.
UPDATE - If you've been looking for DERs / Daily Expedition Reports in the link to the right, they are now being posted!
Today's penguin time was split between Adelies and Gentoos, so perhaps it's appropriate that I follow up on my last post and say a word about the gentoos. Like the adelies (and chinstraps), they are "brush-tailed" penguins. They are the northernmost of the brush-tailed penguins, and can be recognized by white markings above their eyes, and very red beaks. As the northernmost of the group, the gentoos are having basically the opposite response from the adelies to the changing climate - they are the ones benefitting from warmer winters and less pack ice. They seem to be popping up in new places, slowly spreading south, and doing pretty well in this part of the world. Watching them swim along the shore is always a fun pastime, when we get the rare chance to enjoy it. Still taking lots of pictures. Already have too many, really. But I've also already had to pick out my favorites so far. We had a traditional Patagonian dinner the other night, which was a lot of fun.
Sipping cocoa as usual (NOT my first cup today), and glancing out from time to time at the conditions. I never know what I'll see when I look out the window. I hope things are looking good out your windows tonight.
UPDATE - If you've been looking for DERs / Daily Expedition Reports in the link to the right, they are now being posted!
2008-12-05
Adelies
(Written Thursday evening) In my last entry, I mentioned Adelie penguins. But I hadn't actually met any Adelies. Since then, I've had the pleasure to see these classic tuxedo seabirds up close & personal. The Adelie penguins are a truly Antarctic penguin, closely tied to the pack ice, and a krill specialist. Unfortunately, more years of reduced winter ice recently means that in the northern part of their range and areas with lower pack ice, the Adelie populations are declining. And from some sites I am working, you get a snapshot view of the decline - more gentoo and fewer Adelie breeding colonies. Perhaps in my next post I'll talk more about the gentoos.
Thursday was a lot of field work, hiking through deep snow (not THAT far) and continuing our surveys. Friday, perhaps data entry and seminars - we'll see. No field work planned, at least for now. Maybe seal-watching - along with seabirds, the marine mammal list is growing - Orcas as well as Elephant Seals and Weddell Seals.
In honor of my blog's name, it's about time I talked about chocolate and dessert. We're fed well down here - today I chose desserts of carrot cake (with lunch) and cookies & cream ice cream and chocolate sauce (with dinner). Admittedly, their ice cream toppings are not the best. But, dessert is always yummy. and chocolate sandwich cookies (like oreos but with chocolate filling, and .. in their own style) make an excellent afternoon snack. I haven't had any brownies yet - but I'll keep you posted. Just picked up my first cocoa of the day - and its almost bedtime! I'd love to be up for a sunrise or sunset sometime ... but probably not tonight, I'm pooped.
Thursday was a lot of field work, hiking through deep snow (not THAT far) and continuing our surveys. Friday, perhaps data entry and seminars - we'll see. No field work planned, at least for now. Maybe seal-watching - along with seabirds, the marine mammal list is growing - Orcas as well as Elephant Seals and Weddell Seals.
In honor of my blog's name, it's about time I talked about chocolate and dessert. We're fed well down here - today I chose desserts of carrot cake (with lunch) and cookies & cream ice cream and chocolate sauce (with dinner). Admittedly, their ice cream toppings are not the best. But, dessert is always yummy. and chocolate sandwich cookies (like oreos but with chocolate filling, and .. in their own style) make an excellent afternoon snack. I haven't had any brownies yet - but I'll keep you posted. Just picked up my first cocoa of the day - and its almost bedtime! I'd love to be up for a sunrise or sunset sometime ... but probably not tonight, I'm pooped.
2008-12-03
Winds up to 90 knots
Weather has prevented any field work today, but we have all the data entry done and will get set up tonight for tomorrow, when we hope the weather will cooperate. With no exploits of my own to share, another tidbit from Shackleton, from South, his own account of the Endurance Expedition. While maneuvering through the pack ice of the Weddell Sea, Adelie penguins apparently became very excited by the ship's presence. A standing joke among Shackleton's crew was that the Penguins knew crew member Clark, and would rush after the ship when he was at the wheel, calling "Clark! Clark!" - apparently very upset that he didn't answer or wait for them. I haven't yet met the Adelie penguins, who are often described these days as fairly laid back.
On a pittsburgh note, I'd like to point out that their hockey team, the Penguins, are apparently not sure Which penguins would best represent the team. As their logo changes, so does the penguin. I think they have identified in the past with what looks like King and Adelie penguins, respectively. Too bad for them Chris Clark is a Capital and not a Penguin, or the above story would make Adelies a fitting choice, at least for now.
In the meantime, I believe it's time for me to go learn more about the local marine mammals! =)
On a pittsburgh note, I'd like to point out that their hockey team, the Penguins, are apparently not sure Which penguins would best represent the team. As their logo changes, so does the penguin. I think they have identified in the past with what looks like King and Adelie penguins, respectively. Too bad for them Chris Clark is a Capital and not a Penguin, or the above story would make Adelies a fitting choice, at least for now.
In the meantime, I believe it's time for me to go learn more about the local marine mammals! =)
2008-12-02
Gentoos
Well, I made it across the Drake Passage pretty well, though last night I felt the effects of the crossing. My job here is to contribute to surveys of terrestrial flora & fauna of Antarctica, with a focus on certain seabirds. We made our first landing and began surveying marine mammals as well as nests of Petrels and Penguins. It was definitely an experience for me to see first hand what the Penguin nesting colonies are truly like, and to face the challenges - and joys - of the work head on. I witnessed my first penguin fight, where one penguin chased another for quite a ways, while bystanders watched from their nests & snapped if the chase came too close. Or in other words: Penguins!!! Real live, in the wild! Whoo!!!
History tidbit: On Shackleton's voyage south on the Endurance Expedition, his ship was crushed in the ice of the Weddell Sea, but the entire crew survived an incredible journey to eventual rescue and safety. (One cannot say his expedition was without casualties. His original plan had been to cross the Antarctic continent, and the ship laying food depots from the other side of the continent faced it's own problems and did have casualties.)
Despite some IT setbacks and learning on the job, I am having a fantastic time. Fortunately the layers I chose to keep me warm did their job perfectly, and the only part of me that got chilly was my hands (thin gloves to be able to take clear notes). Fortunately, there is plenty of hot chocolate on board to warm me up!
History tidbit: On Shackleton's voyage south on the Endurance Expedition, his ship was crushed in the ice of the Weddell Sea, but the entire crew survived an incredible journey to eventual rescue and safety. (One cannot say his expedition was without casualties. His original plan had been to cross the Antarctic continent, and the ship laying food depots from the other side of the continent faced it's own problems and did have casualties.)
Despite some IT setbacks and learning on the job, I am having a fantastic time. Fortunately the layers I chose to keep me warm did their job perfectly, and the only part of me that got chilly was my hands (thin gloves to be able to take clear notes). Fortunately, there is plenty of hot chocolate on board to warm me up!
2008-12-01
Traveling South.
November 30, 2008
A few days ago I traded in the DC area's cold weather and shortening days for the long summer days of Ushuaia, Argentina. The weather is still cool - not much warmer than home - and store windows still sport Santa Claus and Christmas Trees, but suddenly it's still light out at 10:00 at night. Checking out the local wildlife, I find the Crested Ducks and Flying Steamer Ducks with ducklings in tow. My mind still hasn't translated the breeding season for the Austral summer, even though I expect to see Penguins at their nests. Needless to say, I've already taken plenty of pictures, even if I haven't seen any penguins yet.
All I can say is, thank goodness my luggage arrived intact! Not everyone's reached us in time for the departure. After a few days of fun in Ushuaia, Argentina, I'm now headed south for Antarctica. Tonight begins the trip across the Drake Passage, infamous for bad weather & rough seas. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm tempted to see how far my cell phone coverage lasts ... but I've already shut it off, and likely I'm already out of range. In the meantime, I've started getting to know some of the international crew I'm working with, and learning my way around. It'll take some getting used to.
A few days ago I traded in the DC area's cold weather and shortening days for the long summer days of Ushuaia, Argentina. The weather is still cool - not much warmer than home - and store windows still sport Santa Claus and Christmas Trees, but suddenly it's still light out at 10:00 at night. Checking out the local wildlife, I find the Crested Ducks and Flying Steamer Ducks with ducklings in tow. My mind still hasn't translated the breeding season for the Austral summer, even though I expect to see Penguins at their nests. Needless to say, I've already taken plenty of pictures, even if I haven't seen any penguins yet.
All I can say is, thank goodness my luggage arrived intact! Not everyone's reached us in time for the departure. After a few days of fun in Ushuaia, Argentina, I'm now headed south for Antarctica. Tonight begins the trip across the Drake Passage, infamous for bad weather & rough seas. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm tempted to see how far my cell phone coverage lasts ... but I've already shut it off, and likely I'm already out of range. In the meantime, I've started getting to know some of the international crew I'm working with, and learning my way around. It'll take some getting used to.
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